Bit of a soggy drive up to Twillingate, actually to the Dildo Run Provincial Park. This area is all located on New World Island, which is connected to this particular arm with a causeway. A small park, it is well maintained, with nice well treed sites.
The rain let up a bit, which is nice when you are getting the trailer squared away. More rain later in the afternoon, and overnight the rains subsided, but the wind was gusting and intense.
We both woke in the middle of the night to what definitely sounded like Hindustani music...sitar, flutes, very bizarre. After listening a while, and it did go on, it was definitely influenced by the wind. For a moment though, it was like Ravi Shankar had set up a tent beside us...the fool on the campground.
Although the rain pounded for a while in the morning, the sky cleared, the sun came out, and the afternoon was lovely. Headed into the town of Twillingate to explore. Very cute town, lots of shops, cafes, and pubs.
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| love the colourful houses |
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| classic harbour town |
Spotted a shop called Pencil Art, so we wandered in. Scott is an artist with the gift of being able to create very detailed line drawings, using pencils of course. Super nice guy, and very well done art pieces. We purchased two that we really felt captured the Newfoundland feeling.
Drove up to the lighthouse, which is still in operation, but now also incorporates a small museum. Very interesting place. Took a short tour, and one interesting feature were the tunnels that connected the lighthouse to the other outbuildings. They called them tunnels, but they are above ground enclosed passageways. The reason they exist is to prevent the lighthouse keepers from being blown off the rocky point during heavy storms. A solid plan, as it is over a three hundred foot drop off the cliffs to the ocean below.
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| very cool how the foghorns worked |
The next day we drove to Spillers Cove to hike the trail to see the chimneys. A boardwalk and easy pathways made for a nice walk. The dark looming clouds heading out did not make for a nice walk. I thought for a moment we might just catch the edge of it, but the seriously chubby rain and touch of hail made for not a nice walk. We grabbed what shelter we could behind a large trail marker sign, a bit of protection from the almost horizontal deluge. In a moment though, it had passed and the sun started to peek out.
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| the white spots are hail...lovely |
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| shelter from the storm |
Walked more of the trail but never did find the chimneys. These are tall free standing stacks of rock, like chimneys, without the house. The other hikers we talked to also never found them, although I do not think they may have even been aware of their alleged presence.
Afterwards we headed for the Durrell Museum. Durrell is another little town right beside Twillingate.
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| a bunch of Auks |
On the way we stopped at Stuckless Value Grocer. An odd store, with an odd assortment of goods. Rows of white chest freezers contained all sorts of goodies. Turkey neck halves, pork hocks, whole chickens, softballs of ground beef. The dry goods were just as intriguing. An army of Vienna sausages, pint containers of freeze dried hash browns, endless tins of evaporated milk, and my favourite...big tubs of trimmed navel salt beef, whatever the hell that is. All curiosities aside, this was a clearly store that offered the goods needed for townspeople to provision up for the crazy winter storms this province endures.
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| what do they mean "trimmed navel" |
The Durrell Museum was interesting, with many displays depicting the mariner life. Definitely worth a visit, and being perched on top of a hill overlooking the town was an added bonus.
Pretty much chilled the next day, but as the blackflies were crazy at the campsite, we headed to the harbour, along with Barley. The plan worked perfectly. The was a good onshore breeze that gave any sort of bug no chance a hanging around, and the sun was lovely. Cod bits, of course, made for a simple shore lunch.
Last day in Twillingate was getting squared away to head out in the morning, then a quick run into town. Did a bit of provisioning for Fogo, then grabbed a late lunch at the Stagehead Pub. Food was tasty and the staff were a nice bunch.
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| now that's full! |
Twillingate and the area is great to explore, wander the shops and get a bite. The hikes and the scenery along the coast is very raw and wild. The smell of the ocean reminds you of just where you are.
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| these tubs were everywhere |
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