Opening
1. Drain all the tanks. Again, being at a full service campsite makes the routine a lot easier.
2. Fill the fresh water tank, about 1/2 full, to give it a bit of a rinse.
3. Turn on the pump and run water through all the taps, until the water runs clear, including the toilet.
4. Drain all the tanks again.
5. For a few years I was using bleach to sanitize the fresh water tank and lines, but being tired of the lingering smell, I investigated other options. I found a number of write ups about using citric acid to sanitize. Food safe citric acid is quite popular with the craft beer / wine making crowd. Tanks and carboys are disinfected with a mixture of citric acid and water. I decided to give it a try, and it has now become my new routine. It rinses out well, and has minimal after smell. We do not use the tank for our fresh water drinking supply, but those that do may want to continue using bleach, for a rigorous disinfection.
For those with a Truma system, there is no need to bypass the Truma, as citric acid is what Truma sells as a descaling product for their internal hot water tank.
Citric acid comes as a powder. Be sure to purchase a high quality food grade product. The working mixture I use is 500g (almost 2 cups), dissolved in a bucket of water. Pour this into the fresh water tank, then fill the rest of the tank with fresh water. Now pump this mixture through all the pipes, and let the water system sit untouched for most of the day.
6. Drain the fresh water tank, then fill it again. Now pump this clear water through all the pipes to give them a good flush. If desired, you can certainly repeat this process.
7. I now switch back the hot water heater bypass valves to their normal operating position, which is inline with the supply lines, and fill and flow some water through the hot water tank.
8. I once again do the rubber seal conditioner treatment, just to start the season. I will treat the seals a couple of times over the course of the season, it is easy and fast to do, and pays off in the long run.
9. Generally at this point, I crack a beer and then clean the windows. We clean our windows a lot, given that they are the focal point of the Alto, and provide such a positive vibe to the whole Alto. Why not keep them at their best!
We always try to go to a campsite that has full hookups to do both our opening and closing. It is real handy to have the water and sewer, this allows you to do a real good flush of the tanks without having to haul the trailer to a dump station.
1. Before heading out to the campground, I put a bucket of a cleaning mix into the grey tank and the black tank. The mixture is a combination of Dawn dish detergent and Calgon water softener. The theory being that the Dawn is an excellent grease cutter, and the Calgon is an excellent surfactant, helping get rid of the work done by the detergent. I used this method first in 2015 and it seemed OK, so I continue to do the same at the end of every season. I mix up 1/2 cup of each in a bucket of hot water, and then pour one bucket into both the black and grey tanks, before we drive out to the campsite. It sloshes around in the tanks on the drive, then just sits there working while you camp. It then gets drained when we start the tank cleaning on the final morning we are there.
2. Drain the hot water tank (Truma or otherwise). For the Truma, there is a small chrome valve on a tube going through the floor. To drain, move the lever in line with the tube. As well, move the yellow lever in line with the body of the pressure relief valve. Open a hot water tap to allow air into the system, which helps it drain faster. Once it is empty, close the valves.
3. Rinse the black tank. We have one of those tank wands which connects to a hose, and is then pushed into the tank through the toilet, and the water jets spray down the tank. We always do our winterizing at a campground that offers all three services. Having the tanks connected to a sewer system helps the whole process, as the rinsing then just flows through the sewer hose.
4. Fill some water into the grey tank to help flush out any remaining gunk in the tank. If you have the water and sewer, always a good idea to give the tanks a good cleaning.
6. Drain the fresh water tank, then fill it again. Now pump this clear water through all the pipes to give them a good flush. If desired, you can certainly repeat this process.
7. I now switch back the hot water heater bypass valves to their normal operating position, which is inline with the supply lines, and fill and flow some water through the hot water tank.
8. I once again do the rubber seal conditioner treatment, just to start the season. I will treat the seals a couple of times over the course of the season, it is easy and fast to do, and pays off in the long run.
9. Generally at this point, I crack a beer and then clean the windows. We clean our windows a lot, given that they are the focal point of the Alto, and provide such a positive vibe to the whole Alto. Why not keep them at their best!
Closing
We always try to go to a campsite that has full hookups to do both our opening and closing. It is real handy to have the water and sewer, this allows you to do a real good flush of the tanks without having to haul the trailer to a dump station.
1. Before heading out to the campground, I put a bucket of a cleaning mix into the grey tank and the black tank. The mixture is a combination of Dawn dish detergent and Calgon water softener. The theory being that the Dawn is an excellent grease cutter, and the Calgon is an excellent surfactant, helping get rid of the work done by the detergent. I used this method first in 2015 and it seemed OK, so I continue to do the same at the end of every season. I mix up 1/2 cup of each in a bucket of hot water, and then pour one bucket into both the black and grey tanks, before we drive out to the campsite. It sloshes around in the tanks on the drive, then just sits there working while you camp. It then gets drained when we start the tank cleaning on the final morning we are there.
2. Drain the hot water tank (Truma or otherwise). For the Truma, there is a small chrome valve on a tube going through the floor. To drain, move the lever in line with the tube. As well, move the yellow lever in line with the body of the pressure relief valve. Open a hot water tap to allow air into the system, which helps it drain faster. Once it is empty, close the valves.
3. Rinse the black tank. We have one of those tank wands which connects to a hose, and is then pushed into the tank through the toilet, and the water jets spray down the tank. We always do our winterizing at a campground that offers all three services. Having the tanks connected to a sewer system helps the whole process, as the rinsing then just flows through the sewer hose.
4. Fill some water into the grey tank to help flush out any remaining gunk in the tank. If you have the water and sewer, always a good idea to give the tanks a good cleaning.
5. In preparation for the RV antifreeze, the very first step is to bypass the Truma. This is done using the white plastic valves that are on the red and blue water lines, right near the Truma. There is a vertical pipe that also connects one side of each valve. The role of these valves are no prevent any of the antifreeze fluid from entering the Truma. This fluid may cause issues with the hot water tank in the Truma, so it must be bypassed. Move each plastic valve lever so that they point to each other, vertical in orientation with the bypass pipe that connects the two valves.
6. With the Truma bypassed and all the tanks empty, it is now time for the RV antifreeze to be pumped through the lines. I have been using the propylene glycol based stuff, rather than the ethanol based, as it seems to leave less of an after smell in the tank and lines, and it is apparently easier on any rubber seals or gaskets that may be in the system. It is also non-flammable. It is however, definitely more expensive, but the general consensus is that it is a better product. Be sure to read the label closely though, as there are versions out there with called ethanol/glycol blends. Not the same thing at all. Pour at least one jug, perhaps even a bit more, into the fresh water tank. Remember to check that you have closed the fresh water drain valve, located under the Alto, on the service side of the Alto. Turn on the pump, and open each of the hot and cold taps, one at a time. As the pump picks up the RV antifreeze, the water in the lines will be replaced by the anti-freeze. You will see it come out the taps, as it is generally coloured fluid. It is important to do this for both the hot and cold lines. Do the same for the shower taps, the outdoor shower and the toilet. Don't forget the toilet sprayer. Add more anti-freeze to the fresh water tank if needed.
7. Now pour some anti-freeze down the kitchen sink, and the shower drain.
8. I now empty the black and grey tanks again, to get rid of the water that came out of the lines.
9. I then add more anti-freeze to the sink, shower and the toilet. I want all the tanks to have a little anti-freeze in them over the winter. That pretty much completes the job.
10. I also treat all the rubber seals before putting the Alto away. Actually, I do this a few times a season. The rubber seals are a big part of the Alto, so why not keep them in good shape. I contacted Frederic at Safari Condo, and they use a product made by Thetford, called Slide Out Rubber Seal Conditioner. I wipe it on all the seals with a small rag. It works great, as after 5 years, the seals on our Alto look brand new…soft and pliable.
6. With the Truma bypassed and all the tanks empty, it is now time for the RV antifreeze to be pumped through the lines. I have been using the propylene glycol based stuff, rather than the ethanol based, as it seems to leave less of an after smell in the tank and lines, and it is apparently easier on any rubber seals or gaskets that may be in the system. It is also non-flammable. It is however, definitely more expensive, but the general consensus is that it is a better product. Be sure to read the label closely though, as there are versions out there with called ethanol/glycol blends. Not the same thing at all. Pour at least one jug, perhaps even a bit more, into the fresh water tank. Remember to check that you have closed the fresh water drain valve, located under the Alto, on the service side of the Alto. Turn on the pump, and open each of the hot and cold taps, one at a time. As the pump picks up the RV antifreeze, the water in the lines will be replaced by the anti-freeze. You will see it come out the taps, as it is generally coloured fluid. It is important to do this for both the hot and cold lines. Do the same for the shower taps, the outdoor shower and the toilet. Don't forget the toilet sprayer. Add more anti-freeze to the fresh water tank if needed.
7. Now pour some anti-freeze down the kitchen sink, and the shower drain.
8. I now empty the black and grey tanks again, to get rid of the water that came out of the lines.
9. I then add more anti-freeze to the sink, shower and the toilet. I want all the tanks to have a little anti-freeze in them over the winter. That pretty much completes the job.
10. I also treat all the rubber seals before putting the Alto away. Actually, I do this a few times a season. The rubber seals are a big part of the Alto, so why not keep them in good shape. I contacted Frederic at Safari Condo, and they use a product made by Thetford, called Slide Out Rubber Seal Conditioner. I wipe it on all the seals with a small rag. It works great, as after 5 years, the seals on our Alto look brand new…soft and pliable.
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