2021 Trip 2: Tobermory

Back in the winter our friends Mark & Angela asked us if we would like to plan a road trip through South Western Ontario, pretty much following the shorelines of Lake Huron, and then Lake Erie. Of course we were keen to plan and then explore with them, so in early January we feverishly worked to secure the highly sought after campground reservations.

ready to roll

We planned a route that would take us on a 21 day journey, to mostly provincial parks, and to some private campgrounds when they were closer to our planned destinations.  We made the reservations, which was a journey itself, then spent the rest of the winter in anticipation of getting on the road. However, during those months the health of Dale’s parents started to decline, and although they are very well cared for in their retirement residence, as their essential caregiver, Dale felt uncomfortable with being away for that long. We looked at the schedule and figured we could possibly squeeze in the first half of the trip, then make a bee line back home. 

Bronte Provincial Park in Oakville became the starting point for the trip, as it is near to where Mark & Angela live. Nestled along one of the many ravines that run through the greater Toronto area, Bronte is truly an urban park. Our site backed onto the ravine, and a nice trail ran along its edge. Perfect for those looking for a place to camp while visiting family and friends in the area, and definitely convenient for hopping the GO Train for a trip to explore downtown Toronto. We had dinner at Mark & Angela’s, having a visit and doing some planning for the first part of the journey, mostly along the backroads that we all prefer to travel.

Off to an early start Saturday morning, we weaved our way north to Owen Sound along a variety of county roads. Travelling off the beaten path gives you great scenery and a real feeling for how life goes on in those parts.

At Owen Sound we picked up a route called the Bruce Peninsula Trail. County Road 1 to Wiarton, a town famously known as the home of “Wharton Willie”, then County Road 9 north along the east side of the peninsula. We stopped for lunch at the Colpoy Lookout, checked out the beach at Hope’s Bay, then made our way to Tobermory. From the shipbuilding at Owen’s Sound, to the sawmilling and farming, people eked out a living amongst the rocky hardscrabble peninsula. Tobermory, at the tip, is a small fishing village originally called Collins Harbour, but was renamed by Scottish immigrants, after their sea coast fishing village on the Isle of Mull, Scotland.

Our campground is at Lands End, a private spot carved out of the  rocky, cedar rich land, and just a short jaunt into Tobermory.  

not sure Dale would call them "our rattlesnakes"

Monday was a day of local exploration, starting with a walk along the Grotto Trail in Bruce Peninsula National Park, and ending with a wander through the town. 

a rather creative way to warn about jumping from heights 

The Grotto Trail was a nice hike through a predominantly cedar forest, eventually ending at the rocky shoreline of Indian Head, where we could view what we thought was the Grotto. 

Angela takes a break...

I say this because we found out later that in fact we did not see the Grotto. Based on photos that Angela sent to her daughter, Elaine informed her Mom that we had not actually made it to the Grotto. Oh well next trip then…LOL, but whatever we saw was pretty nice. The water is icy cold at Indian Head, and the gasps and shrieks from the brave few that plunged in confirmed this fact.

We also checked out Singing Sands, a day use beach of the National Park, on the west side of the peninsula. As you walk on the sand along the beach, it makes a squeaking sound with every step, hence the name. Although the afternoon we visited, all you could hear was the cold howling wind that was hurtling across the beach, those winds so strong that you can lean your body into them and sheer force would hold you up. We did not last long there, and certainly not long enough to get full value from the $20 day park pass that I had to purchase to get in, the result of forgetting to bring with me the park pass I had bought earlier in the day….duh!

Tuesday we took a Blue Heron Cruises tour boat to Flowerpot Island, a short 15 minute ride from the Tobermory harbour. We were very impressed by their operation, well organized with new custom made boats.  Flowerpot Island is named for the “flowerpot” rock formations, it is part of the National Park system.

A young woman who was also hiking the trail offered to take our photo. She is an aspiring professional photographer, and enjoys taking photos of people. What a nice thing for her to be doing.

A well maintained trail takes you past the flowerpots, out to the lighthouse and the light keepers home. Much of the island is undeveloped, although some minor repairs were done years ago to the bases of the rather precarious standing flowerpots. Parks Canada has recently implemented a non-intervention policy, so perhaps some day these structures will fall victim to the relentless actions of nature.

Tobermory is also home to Fathom Five, part of the National Marine Park system. The park attracts scuba divers, who come to explore the many shipwrecks that dot the coast. Plenty to do and see in this neck of the woods.